Dear All

I am now in Kibbutz Ketura. It is 30 minutes away from Eilat. I guess I should start where I  was last, back in Haifa. Well, after really overstaying our welcome in Haifa by a few days too many, it was time to go. My aunt and her family were not used to the trials and tribulations of adolescent life, especially the life of the elder Taviv siblings.

So after 12 days we got one of our newly acquired Arab buddies to take us to the central bus station. We took the bus to Jerusalem. We arrived there slightly disorientated. And OMG (OH MY G-D) was my backpack heavy. I could barely walk. Freaked out 'coz we missioned for quite a bit before we eventually found the Tabasco Hostel where we would sleep for the night. Spent 15 shekels and got beds in the room on the roof. This place was in the centre of the shuk (Arab market). Jerusalem's old city is like a maze. We went to see the wailing wall which is five minutes from the hostel and wandered around for over an hour after trying to find the damn hostel again. It was exhausting.

At first glance I did not really like Jerusalem. The people there are
extremists. We only stayed 2 days and hardly saw anything there, but I plan to return.The second day there I went to Yad Vashem, thats the biggest holocaust museum in Israel. It really made me think about things that I had never considered before.

I've been meeting people all over. When we left Jerusalem, Jacob from Denmark had to carry my backpack 'coz I was incapable. People we've met have been really friendly. Also, we met sisters from Holland, I told them I'll be seeing them in June, they said sure. Jerusalem is one place in Israel where all religious groups live together. Maybe that is why there is such a tense vibe there.

We made the last bus to Betar just in time. Betar is an ultra orthodox
neighbourhood in Israel. Only really religious jews live there. They have
closed off their families from the evil ways of the world. We went to our
family there for Pesach Seder. Ended up getting sent to this American rabbi and his six children. We got to see how they live. Let me tell you these people have nothing. The poor, harassed mother, this teeny woman could barely cope with her brood, nevermind trying to organize the dinner. I shocked them with the relevance and deepness of my thought processes. By midnight I could not take any of their brainwashed bullshit anymore and we hastily made our escape. These poor fools did not know what to make of us.

We rejoined our family for the last of the seder. At least with our family
there was a more jovial atmosphere. They do what they do because they have chosen it, and it is the kind of life that makes them happy. I can accept
and appreciate that, but it certainly does not change the way I see things.
Each to his own. My relatives, Esther & Garic are mommy and daddy and there have twins, two cute little girls. The house is constantly filled with other people and other children. Freaked out the little kids by telling them a story out of a pinnochio book from the pictures and my imagination alone. I'm sure they were very good little children after that tall tale.

Only stayed a night in Betar. From there, the following evening we caught a ride with Sasha (my cousin of similar age), Garic's sister and her dweeb doctor boyfriend to her family in Beer Sheva. Rita & Boris, her parents greeted us with great hospitality and we immediately felt comfortable there. That night while Yossi was wasting time withhis girlfriend Jacqui, i went with Sasha and her freind Alex to The Forum. Its one of the biggest clubs in Israel. It was fascinating to check it out. I must say its all very different to the way its done in South Africa.  I guess it does not matter where in the world you are, people still wanna party.

The next day we went to the Dead Sea. Oh, heaven, its an awesome place. I'd think about moving to Israel just for the Dead Sea. The water is like oil on your skin, and even me with my deep fear of water can paddle far into it as there is no risk of drowning. Your body is like a plastic bottle that just bobs in the water. Its a experience I highly recommend. Wow! Returning home Sasha and I again went on the jol, this time to the university party. It was nowhere close to the standard of Forum, but I am so interested in everything at the moment, as it is all new to me.

OK- Sasha had to go back to work so I decided Yossi and I would make a
mission to Ein Gedi, a nature reserve with waterfalls in the middle of the
desert. Unfortunately, it took ages to get Yossi out of bed and I did not
realize how far it was. It took us six separete hitch-hikes just to get to the dead sea and by that time it was already 3pm. We were too late to go to Ein Gedi, so we went to Masada, which is really nearby. We climbed that damn mountain. Geez I thought my breathing would cause my head to explode. Straight uphill at a really steep gradient took it all out if me. The blister I got by the time we reached the top spoilt the  missioning around we had to do to really take in the historical fortress of Masada. Our plan was to watch the sunset. I was worried  about hitchhiking in the dark though. Anyway, we met up with some Israelis that told us they'd drop us on the main road, where hopefully we could get a ride. So, we walked down the same steep side of Masada once again.

Once on the main road I was nervous. Thought we may end up spending the night there as we were far from Beer Sheva and the safety of my family's home. The first car that stopped for us was like "We're going to Beer Sheva". Thank God Almighty, I could not believe
our luck. They took us all the way to our door.

The next day was a real waste of time. I learnt that people talk a lot and often don't deliver, and not to depend on people when I don't know them. The only productive thing I did the whole day was buy a pair of cool sandals. I've put on at least 5kgs since I got here, family has been feeding me way too well.

Yossi, Jacqui and I got dropped at the central station and had just bought
bus tickets to Eilat when a cab driver made a deal with us. We managed to
get rid of the bus tickets, and cruised all the way to Eilat in luxury,
listening to Pink Floyd and smoking. He dropped us on the main road in
Eilat. The place was a madhouse. Apparently most of Isael goes to Eilat for
the Pesach holiday, nevermind that it's the no 1 tourist destination. It was
crawling with people. Prices at the hostels were very expensive but we did
not have a choice. I was not willing to sleep on the beach with my backpack.

This is the point where I learned that it does not cost people anything to
talk but when it actually comes to doing what they promised its an
altogether different story. I was very disappointed when I was let down by
every single person that said they would help us out when we got to Eilat.
I learnt that you can only rely on yourself.

Paid for two nights at Corinnes hostel, nice & quiet place with strong air
conditioning. And immediately hit the beach. Masses of bronzed bodies covered the shore. Smaller than Cape Town and so a lot more crowded. I don't think my skin has ever been as dark as it is at the moment. I seriously look like a Red Indian, my skin has that tinge to it. Met some people, and started asking around for work. All said to come back after Pesach, as it was too crazy at the moment.

Met Liev Steinman, a 40 something year old planetary guardian. He's a famous painter. Saw some of his work and I must say considering that I am not a great appreciator of art, his work blew me away. He's into some deep mystical sufft though, highly intelligent man and I enjoyed talking to him. Checked out a party on the beach later in the evening and was horrified to
see 8 and 9 year old boys, running around trying to score chics at 3am.
First time I've seen them so young. Where the hell are their mothers, is
what I'd like to know.

The next day was spent bronzing my body at the beach again. That night just went out for dinner. Met up with buds at the Underground Pub and had to make a quick escape from the cheesy karaoke that wa blasting there. Yuck!

We had to leave Eilat as hostels were still too expensive. We hitched to
Kibbutz Ketura. I got a lift first, Yossi & Jacqui said they'd get a lift
quicker if I went first. Yeah sure, I ended up waiting for them at the
Kibbutz for over two hours. I was a bit worried. They could not even get a ride and ended up catching a bus. I got here without a hassle and met two cool dudes from Tel Aviv.

So, we met the family on the kibbutz. Quiet life here. Nice to just take a
break from it all and just chill. Spent the day lazing by the pool. Finished
reading Aldous Huxley's "A brave new world". Really enjoyed it. So thats all
that I've been up to since the last time.

Hope all is well back in South Africa. For those who have not taken the time to write at all, and you know who you are, get your butts in gear and keep me informed.

Love, light and blessings
Michal

Greetings everyone!!!

I hope all is going well, I thought it was time to fill you
in on what I’ve been up to…

Well, it all began when I said goodbye (as quickly as possible) to avoid tears. Then, of course, ended up waiting over an hour for the plane. I met two ladies in the meanwhile. Got into my seat, feeling slightly dazed and confused. I did not have a window seat but the guy next to me  who did, seeing my obvious excitement, kindly agreed to exchange with me and gave over the prized seat.

It was an incredibly long first flight. I landed in Zurich, Switzerland in the morning still enthusiastic. I chatted away to whomever I could. The flight to Tel Aviv was a lot less comfortable. It was really cramped and I was becoming really tired. All the swiss chocolate they were feeding us on Swiss Air did not  help the situation either.

Anyway, I finally arrived at Ben Gurion airport. I had to mission to find my
dear moms rug (a present for my aunt) , got my luggage and found a taxi to Kiriyat Byalik without a hassle. The cart was a major help with my 23kg
backpack. I really did over pack but hey I can always send some back.

OK- I shocked my aunt and uncle when I finally arrived in Haifa that evening at 6pm. They thought I would not be able to speak a word of hebrew. They said I speak better Hebrew than Yossi (my younger brother) did after a couple of months. Impressive!!!

Anyway they were really sweet, and have been making sure there is no chance to lose any weight. They have been very hospitable and I appreciate the love of family.

Shockingly enough I have also been getting on well with my two nieces, I'm sharing a room with the youngest. Shes five years old and an absolute brat, but I can deal with it. It sure has been interesting.

On Friday we went to visit the apartment I lived in when my family lived in Israel. I did not remember much of it. We also visited the nursery school that my siblings and I went to. The teacher there remembered Ron & Sharon, not us, but I guess twins are more memorable but amazing that she remembered them after almost 15 years!

 I'm trying hard to get to know my way around but all I’ve
seen so far are a few parts of Haifa, I have much yet to see in the rest of the country, but I am trying to plan properly.

Friday night Yossi and I decided it was time to go on the jol (South African slang for party), so our aunt found an ad in a magazine promoting the Jet Club. We decided to give it a try. Yossie & I got there early at 10:30pm.We were slightly over eager.  The party only starts at 12:30. So to keep ourselves entertained we met and chatted to all the managers and bouncers. In the end, we didn't pay for a thing and were looked after the whole night. It was interesting. They played much music I recognize from South Africa but also mixed in a lot of commercial and even cheesy stuff, but the vibe was good. I managed to party the night away. What
a good time we had. I met quite a few people. Unfortunately they were mostly men and the guys here are something else. They are all after one thing, and boy, are they persistent.

We went to a classical concert in a small nature reserve on Saturday and had a quiet evening. I've even been going up to people on the street to start conversations. They are interested to chat as I’m not from here and they want to know what its like in South Africa.

Sunday we went to Akko, its an ancient city. I did not really like it. I found
it dirty, it stank of dead fish, and was tourist orientated and a rip off.
I bought an ice cream there and dropped my wallet. Yossie and I hitch hiked back to my Aunts place and then I realized I had lost half the contents of my wallet at that Arab store where I had bought the ice cream. Freaked out!!!!!!

The dude that had picked us up hitch hiking ended up taking me back all that way and believe it or not the arab at the shop had kept all my stuff. It was not money, but my insurance card, hostel card, phone card etc. He had put it all aside in a plastic bag for me. Lucky, ain’t I?

Somehow, I can’t really imagine living here. I have not met anyone I really
understand. Life is very different here and everyone keeps telling me to be
careful. They say I’m too open and should not be as friendly as I am. This I find very hard to understand. I have not really felt in danger but I guess I
don’t know what happens here. After living in Johannesburg I think I should be able to manage.

We will go to Jerusalem to celebrate Passover in a religious fashion
with our family there and I think I’ve decided that I will work in Eilat, as
it is the best tourist destination and it sounds like there is much to see and
do there. I will possibly work in a hotel, hopefully I'll manage to find a job even though I cannot read Hebrew (although I am working on learning the
alphabet).

A funny thing is that there are signs on the street and in the parks that
show a dog defecating. Apparently, you can get a fine if your dog does his business on the grass. It’s your responsibility to pick it up. That really tickled me as I have never seen anything like that in South Africa.

Then on Monday we decided to go to Nazareth. So we hitch a ride with this
Arab. It turns out he is one of the coolest guys I’ve ever met. He’s 38 and a
man with an open mind and a heart of gold. He took us to his place for coffee and introduced us to his entire family, half the town is related to him
as his family has been living there for 400 years. Took us to the Church of
the Annunciation in Nazareth, where I took a couple of photos. We then walked through the market. Then we went to have dinner with his family. Their hospitality is something else. Never in my life have I ever experienced such kindness and generosity in people. My preconceived notion of Arabs is shattered. After dinner a whole bunch of his friends came over for a session. All of them good, honest people. From there we went to his friends
room. This room had a UV light, a strobe, a light ball, and an assortment of
glow in the dark toys etc that could entertain the eye for an entire
evening.

Met almost 30 people in one night. All of them like minded individuals that
want peace and love in the world, and nearly all of them Arabs. Amazing is
it not, what can be discovered when the eyes and the heart are open. I’m at a loss for words to describe the kindness of these people. They treated us with such respect and caring, I felt like I was in my own family. Absolutely incredible. Yossi and I slept over at Siyaddi's house, the guy that picked us up hitchhiking. He gave us his bed and did more than what was necessary to make sure we were comfortable.

The next day we woke up to be served coffee and tea like kings in our beds. After some faffing around we went to the Sea of Gallillee, where Jesus supposedly walked on the water,  and we had a swim. Its actually a huge lake, not a sea, with calm & warm water. From there we drove around Tiberias. It’s a beautiful area. I'm finally starting to see why they say Israel is the Chosen Land. I had to phone and let my aunt know all was ok as they were worried because we have been hitch-hiking around.

All I know is that I am so glad that I finally met some people that
understand what I am about, and unlike all the other idiotic men here have
the wisdom and understanding to actually talk to me like a human being and not just an attractive body. It felt good to find consensus with people
of a different culture. We all want peace, we all want to lead good lives.
Who needs war and hatred? For what?

Siyaddi returned us home safe and sound other than a few mosquito bites, and tonight we are going jolling (partying) with the Arabs. We’ll hit a club in Haifa and probably spend the night at his place again. We discuss things that matter, things that open the mind. Yossi and I both just cannot believe our luck since we got here. Awesome!!!!

So, we spent Wednesday night missioning with the Arabs. Quite a party! It
was a memorable evening. At about 4:30am we went to a spot by the sea of Galilee to watch the sunrise. Gorgeous. From there we went all over the show, stopping off to see the sights. Even tried to go horseriding but
although both Yossi and I tried, the horse refused to move for us. It seems to  only be used to its owner and won’t take commands from anyone else. Returned to my aunts place at 6pm the following day and after a much needed shower, we hit the sack.

Which brings us to today. I went with my uncle and niece to watch the
Israeli symphonic orchestra. My uncle plays the violin in the orchestra so we had free tickets, of course. It was nice to chill for a bit. Tonight I’m going to a family birthday. I'll meet family I've never yet met. It should be interesting. After that we’ll probably go jolling with our good friends the Arabs.

Shame, my aunt has already complained and told me not to give out her home number to everyone we meet. She says the phone is constantly ringing for us, and we are way too popular. I don’t even recognise half the names of the people that have called.

So, things are going well. I'm getting itchy feet and we’ll make the trip to
Jerusalem early next week. Looking forward to seeing more of the country.

Love and blessings
Michal